Notes from a day in Alfama, Lisbon
A coastal town that charmed me with its winding streets, tiled facades, and yellow trams appearing like magic from around corners.
Alfama isn’t exactly a hidden gem. It’s one of Lisbon’s most visited neighbourhoods, often bustling with tourists and lined with souvenir shops. But I got lucky. I visited several times just as spring was waking up: the sun warm enough to linger outdoors, but the crowds not quite there yet. In these notes, I’m sharing a few quiet corners that let me soak in the charm of Alfama at my own pace.
I started the day in Martim Moniz square and climbed a steep path of stairs (some of them replaced by an escalator) up to Café da Garagem. Tucked away in a colourful alley, the café offers sweeping views over Lisbon’s rooftops and Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. I found a window seat, ordered a matcha latte and a pastel de nata (as addictive as they say), and watched the city glow in the morning light. A girl next to me was reading, and I instantly wished I had a book with me, too.
Fuelled by sugar and matcha, I made my way up to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. You can take the cute Funicular da Graça up the hill, but I preferred to walk, passing more tiled façades and quiet streets along the way.
The view from the top was everything: layers of red rooftops, the towers of Castelo de São Jorge, and the famous Ponte 25 de Abril stretching across the water.
Later, I wandered up the street from the viewpoint in search of lunch. I found my way to a small, traditional Portuguese restaurant Sant’Avó. It was a Sunday, and the place was filled with locals: a family with a toddler enjoying a slow meal by the window, a group of friends sharing a bottle of wine at the next table. When the waiter came around with a tray of desserts: chocolate mousse, rice pudding, baked egg custard - I couldn’t resist. The egg custard won, and I was not disappointed.
The rest of the afternoon was spent wondering through Alfama’s maze: sunlit alleyways, faded laundry swaying above, and the occasional tram making its way down impossibly narrow streets.
I found another peaceful viewpoint Miradouro de Santa Luzia, this time overlooking soft white facades and the sea beyond.
To wrap up the day, I settled at a natural wine bar (now sadly closed). The area around it (R. do Vigário) was full of life: music drifting from nearby bars, people chatting over drinks on sidewalks. The kind of street energy that makes you want to stay out just a little longer.
Alfama stirred all the senses: delicious food, beautiful exteriors, and golden-hour views. I have thoroughly enjoyed my day there.
A few favourite spots from the day:
A breakfast / apéritivo café with panoramic views: Café da Garagem
Scenic viewpoints : Miradouro da Senhora do Monte and Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Traditional Portuguese restaurant: Sant’Avó
A bar street full of charm and music: R. do Vigário
Have you wandered through Alfama? I'd love to hear what stayed with you! Drop your favourite places or moments in the comments - I’m always collecting ideas for next time.