Finding our rhythm in Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
A place that felt busy at first, but opened up the more we explored.
I have been really excited to visit Hiriketiya. My interest peaked after seeing countless social media posts proclaiming it to be Sri Lanka’s “sleepy little village”. Before going there, I was so sure we would stay longer that I didn’t even book any accommodation beyond our initial week-long stay. I guess expectations have a funny way of shaping our experiences.
Once we arrived in Hiri and took our first stroll down to the main beach, I quickly realised it wasn’t the sleepy village I had pictured. It had a much more established, lively feel than I’d imagined. The street leading to the beach was lined with shops, and the main beach was popular. Finding a free patch of sand took a little patience. The surf spots were busy, especially the beginner lineup. It makes sense that it’s drawn so much attention. It got ours too, and we were part of the crowd.
For the week ahead, we committed to exploring what this stretch of Sri Lanka’s south has to offer and to finding our place within it. In this post, I’ll share the spots I found more relaxing and chilled compared to the main stretch of Hiri.
On our second day, we rented a scooter and set out to explore the beaches around Hiri. Within a 10-minute ride, we found ourselves at Kudawella Beach - a looong stretch of sand, barely touched by development. It was such a refreshing contrast to the busier feel of the main beach. This spot was perfect for us as we wanted to continue practicing our surfing. It wasn’t as crowded as the beginner beach in Weligama, but still offered smooth, forgiving waves for practice. There were a couple of surf schools for those wanting lessons, as well as board rentals.
The beach also had a few relaxed places to hang out. We particularly enjoyed Sjael, which has a big lawn to lounge on, great food, and cold coconuts. This is where we ended up spending most of our time in Hiri.
On the way, we stopped by Nilwella Fishery Harbour. All we could see were colourful boats rocking gently in the water. I imagine you can buy fresh fish here earlier in the day, though we didn’t try ourselves.
Our second favourite beach was Dickwella Beach. It’s easily accessible without transportation: about a 20-minute walk from the main Hiri beach. It was slightly more crowded, but since the stretch of sand is so long, it never felt overwhelming.
I especially loved being here at sunset. It’s the perfect place to unwind on a beach chair with a coconut, or take a slow stroll along the shoreline and watch the sun sink behind the palm trees.
One place within Hiri’s radius that I really liked (and that probably needs no further introduction) is the hotel and restaurant Mond. I first read about it in the book Dream Business by Courier (whatever happened to them? I’m still waiting for more books to come!). I was so inspired by the founders’ story who moved to Hiri to build their own place, that I’ve wanted to visit ever since.
We went for lunch at their restaurant, and the atmosphere was incredibly peaceful. The terrace overlooks the ocean, and it almost feels like it’s the only place along that entire stretch of coastline. The food was excellent! I can definitely recommend the fish curry and the hoppers. It was also the first place in Sri Lanka where I saw such an extensive tea menu.
Apart from the hotel, they also run Studio Mond, a workshop where they handcraft their ceramics and sell a few other items like tote bags. A perfect spot to pick up a meaningful souvenir to bring home.
Last but not least, our stay in Hiri was once again made special by our wonderful host family at Space Hiri. We chose a homestay, living in a separate unit next to the owner’s house. The hosts were incredibly kind and cooked us a delicious homemade Sri Lankan breakfast every morning. From our terrace, we could once again observe the lush nature around us, and monkeys jumping between the trees as we relaxed.
Here are a couple more places worth checking out in Hiri:
Bacuzzi Pizza - insanely good pizza with proper dough, which is hard to find in Sri Lanka.
RAA Restaurant - if you’re ready to splurge, this place offers delicious food and cocktails that are truly worth the price. Bonus: views overlooking the surf spot and sunset.
Garlic Café - we only tried brunch here. The portions are generous and the food is good, but be prepared for a bit of a wait.
Le Ketiya Boutique - a cute boutique with local brands. This is where I first saw a copy of the Sri Lanka Surfer’s Guide. A lovely memory to take home if you’re into surfing.
All in all, after a week in Hiri, the area really opens up once you explore a little further. Within a 10-minute ride from it, you’ll find long, untouched beaches on both sides, with plenty of spots to slow down and simply enjoy. One week felt just right for us, and after that, we were ready to head to our next destination.
Have you been to Hiriketiya? What was it like for you? I’m so curious to hear other perspectives and any tips for future travels. Feel free to share in the comments :)
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Thanks so much for reading this far 🤍
The level of development in Hiriketiya is insane, even in the last three years it's changed so much. Influencers have been hyping Sri Lanka up as 'the new Bali', so there's little wonder why it's so overtouristed and losing its culture to foreign-owned brunch spots.
Wonderful write ups, thoroughly enjoying them! Planning to go Sri Lanka later on this year and it’s wonderful to get a first hand account of your experiences - keep ‘em coming!